Pigeon Mating
An adult female pigeon is called a hen and an adult male pigeon is called a cock. Cocks strut, coo and spread their tail into a full half moon shape and often turn a full circle when they do while females will swell their crops with some air but usually stand at a more upright angle (45 degrees or so) when they do it, as opposed to the cock who almost bows to the floor. Sexually active birds, usually cocks, frequently clap their wings together in a sort of advertising flight, and may combine the claps with an ostentatious glide, with wings held in a "V" and tails spread. On the ground, a cock "drives," or chases, his mate away from other prospective suitors. A cock then struts around the hen, eventually standing up, spreading his tail, and bowing to coo at her. Other intimate pigeon behavior includes billing, often a prelude to mating, when the hen sticks her bill down the cock's throat and takes an offering of regurgitated food (right picture). This is a part of the courtship and mating rituals of pigeons and billing can be followed by an alloy-preening, when pairs lightly preen each other's heads. If you spend few more minutes watching them after billing, you'll likely witness the behavior leading to copulation (left picture). Once paired, pigeons mate for life unless they are separated by death or by humans. The domestic pigeon normally reaches sexual maturity at about five to six months of age. Depending on the local temperatures and food supply, they may breed all year round. Many fanciers, however, prevent them from breeding continuously -either by separating the sexes, or by letting mated pairs sit on wooden (dummy) eggs. Once mated, the male (cock) will begin to hunt for a suitable place to make a nest and rear young. Domestic pigeons do not nest in trees as do many other doves. They are descendants of a cliff dwelling species and prefer their nest to be on a solid surface. Most fanciers (breeders) also provide a nest bowl and some nesting materials (pine needles, tobacco stems, etc.) for the birds to use. The nest bowl helps to ensure that the eggs do not roll out from under the pair and chill.
An adult female pigeon is called a hen and an adult male pigeon is called a cock. Cocks strut, coo and spread their tail into a full half moon shape and often turn a full circle when they do while females will swell their crops with some air but usually stand at a more upright angle (45 degrees or so) when they do it, as opposed to the cock who almost bows to the floor. Sexually active birds, usually cocks, frequently clap their wings together in a sort of advertising flight, and may combine the claps with an ostentatious glide, with wings held in a "V" and tails spread. On the ground, a cock "drives," or chases, his mate away from other prospective suitors. A cock then struts around the hen, eventually standing up, spreading his tail, and bowing to coo at her. Other intimate pigeon behavior includes billing, often a prelude to mating, when the hen sticks her bill down the cock's throat and takes an offering of regurgitated food (right picture). This is a part of the courtship and mating rituals of pigeons and billing can be followed by an alloy-preening, when pairs lightly preen each other's heads. If you spend few more minutes watching them after billing, you'll likely witness the behavior leading to copulation (left picture). Once paired, pigeons mate for life unless they are separated by death or by humans. The domestic pigeon normally reaches sexual maturity at about five to six months of age. Depending on the local temperatures and food supply, they may breed all year round. Many fanciers, however, prevent them from breeding continuously -either by separating the sexes, or by letting mated pairs sit on wooden (dummy) eggs. Once mated, the male (cock) will begin to hunt for a suitable place to make a nest and rear young. Domestic pigeons do not nest in trees as do many other doves. They are descendants of a cliff dwelling species and prefer their nest to be on a solid surface. Most fanciers (breeders) also provide a nest bowl and some nesting materials (pine needles, tobacco stems, etc.) for the birds to use. The nest bowl helps to ensure that the eggs do not roll out from under the pair and chill.
New Eggs
When pigeons start mating, the hen lays her first egg 8-10 days later and the second egg 1-2 days after the first egg. The first time they lay, young hens often lay smaller than average eggs. Pigeons usually lay two eggs. The first egg is usually laid in the evening between 5 P.M. and 7 P.M. Because one of the hen's ovaries never develops, hens can only produce one egg at a time. It takes about two days for the second egg to develop in the ovary after the first is laid and has cleared the oviduct. The second eggis usually laid in the afternoon between 2 P.M. and 3 P.M. It is suggested that the breeders should take the first laid egg away from the parents and not let them start the incubation process. Otherwise, the first laid egg will hatched 36-48 hours earlier than the second. This will cause the first baby to be nearly twice the size of the newly hatched second chick. The parents may choose to neglect the second chick as they may think survival chance of the first and bigger chick is greater than the younger and the weak chick. I not remove the first egg so that both chicks can hatch in the same time. I give my breeders more than enough food to feed their off spring and I never had any problems with this. I also try not to handle the eggs or disturb the parents during their incubation. The developing embryo is very fragile at this time and just a little shaking can cause its death. Also it is more sensitive to chill.
Foster Parenting
If you are a pigeon breeder, at some point you will want to switch eggs under foster parents for one reason or another and replace it with other eggs from other parents. This is usually done because you want more babies from one pair and you don't want to wait 2 months for 2 babies. Instead, you want to foster the eggs under other pairs so that the pair you are trying to get off springs could lay their next round of eggs in 10 days to raise you more babies. Foster parenting is very common when breeding pigeons. This is easily done, but the timing of incubation with both pairs needs to be similar. Usually, if the sets of eggs are laid within 3 days of each other, the switch goes successfully. If it is more than that, the babies will either hatch too early and that will cause babies to perish because the foster parents will not have sufficient crop milk. On the other hand, if they hatch too late, the foster parents may desert the eggs or already be on the downside of crop milk production. Every time my breeders lay eggs I write down the date. This allows me to know when the babies will hatch. It also helps me to achieve the proper timing for foster parenting. Eggs can be easily held for 3 to 5 days at room temperature, before incubation has started, and placed under foster parents when the timing is right. Eggs held in the hydrator drawer of a refrigerator can be held somewhat longer. If you decide to pull the first egg from the parents, make sure to keep the egg in a cool, dark place on a layer of soft tissue paper until the next egg is laid, and then return it to the nest. To avoid soft shells, which can be caused by poor nutrition, diet or deficiency of calcium (grit), give your breeders a lot of grit and more than usual food. I have noticed some of my breeders don't incubate steadily on an egg until the second egg is laid. This is why, many times both eggs hatched around same time.
If you are a pigeon breeder, at some point you will want to switch eggs under foster parents for one reason or another and replace it with other eggs from other parents. This is usually done because you want more babies from one pair and you don't want to wait 2 months for 2 babies. Instead, you want to foster the eggs under other pairs so that the pair you are trying to get off springs could lay their next round of eggs in 10 days to raise you more babies. Foster parenting is very common when breeding pigeons. This is easily done, but the timing of incubation with both pairs needs to be similar. Usually, if the sets of eggs are laid within 3 days of each other, the switch goes successfully. If it is more than that, the babies will either hatch too early and that will cause babies to perish because the foster parents will not have sufficient crop milk. On the other hand, if they hatch too late, the foster parents may desert the eggs or already be on the downside of crop milk production. Every time my breeders lay eggs I write down the date. This allows me to know when the babies will hatch. It also helps me to achieve the proper timing for foster parenting. Eggs can be easily held for 3 to 5 days at room temperature, before incubation has started, and placed under foster parents when the timing is right. Eggs held in the hydrator drawer of a refrigerator can be held somewhat longer. If you decide to pull the first egg from the parents, make sure to keep the egg in a cool, dark place on a layer of soft tissue paper until the next egg is laid, and then return it to the nest. To avoid soft shells, which can be caused by poor nutrition, diet or deficiency of calcium (grit), give your breeders a lot of grit and more than usual food. I have noticed some of my breeders don't incubate steadily on an egg until the second egg is laid. This is why, many times both eggs hatched around same time.
Incubation
The parents take turns keeping their eggs warm (incubating). Incubation is not equally shared, since the hen does most of the work on each day. Only when she leaves the nest, the cock assumes the duties. Cock usually stay on the nest during the day and the hen takes over after 5 P.M (15.00). until late morning. If an egg cools down too much after incubation has started, the egg will not develop and hatch. The parents need to keep a steady temperature of about 39°- 40°C (102°- 105°F) 24 hours per day for the embryo to properly develop. Hen or cock will get off the nest when the nature calls, eat and drink but will resume incubating right away, not letting the egg lose its temperature. After the five days the eggs may be inspected to see if they are fertile. It's easy to inspect an egg; just hold the egg in the bright light. If the egg is fertile you can see the blood vessels through the thin shell. If not fertile, the eggs will look clear inside. After the fifth day inspection, try not to handle the eggs or disturb the incubation for the remaining of its process.
The parents take turns keeping their eggs warm (incubating). Incubation is not equally shared, since the hen does most of the work on each day. Only when she leaves the nest, the cock assumes the duties. Cock usually stay on the nest during the day and the hen takes over after 5 P.M (15.00). until late morning. If an egg cools down too much after incubation has started, the egg will not develop and hatch. The parents need to keep a steady temperature of about 39°- 40°C (102°- 105°F) 24 hours per day for the embryo to properly develop. Hen or cock will get off the nest when the nature calls, eat and drink but will resume incubating right away, not letting the egg lose its temperature. After the five days the eggs may be inspected to see if they are fertile. It's easy to inspect an egg; just hold the egg in the bright light. If the egg is fertile you can see the blood vessels through the thin shell. If not fertile, the eggs will look clear inside. After the fifth day inspection, try not to handle the eggs or disturb the incubation for the remaining of its process.
Hatching
Under normal circumstances, the first egg will hatch after 18 days and the second egg after 19 days, if parents started to incubate when the first egg was laid. Otherwise, they will both hatch on the same day. The hatching process takes from 15 to 30 hours and after hatched the hatched pigeon is called a hatchling. During hatching, you should NOT help a baby out of an egg. The baby develops the muscles in his neck, legs, and body as he pushes out of the egg. This may take 24-36 hours or longer from the initial pip until the baby is out. If you interfere with the egg, you will most likely cause the baby to bleed to death or if keeps alive, it will be weak for there entire life. There are many tiny blood vessels lining the egg. Breaking these will kill the bird. If you allow the bird enough time, the blood vessels will dry and the bird can hatch. The baby depends on nutrients available from the yolk; these are absorbed into the baby's belly. It is also very important not to move the egg during the few days before the bird hatches. The baby will orient himself inside the egg so that his head is at the larger end of the egg near the air sac. The baby pips his way through the shell using the edge of his beak. Once a hole is made, the baby needs to rest for several hours and acclimate his lungs to the outside air. The baby should not be disturbed during these critical phases. The baby will turn inside the egg and continue to struggle until he's out of the shell. He will be wet and exhausted and will usually lie still. After some time he will begin to perk up. When the chick have hatched and have dried, they are fed within the first hour by their parents. Try not to handle hatchling as they are very fragile and need protection and warmth from their parents. Parents should be provided food and drinking water to produce pigeon milk for the hatchlings. Unlike mammals, both sexes produce the crop milk in pigeons.
Under normal circumstances, the first egg will hatch after 18 days and the second egg after 19 days, if parents started to incubate when the first egg was laid. Otherwise, they will both hatch on the same day. The hatching process takes from 15 to 30 hours and after hatched the hatched pigeon is called a hatchling. During hatching, you should NOT help a baby out of an egg. The baby develops the muscles in his neck, legs, and body as he pushes out of the egg. This may take 24-36 hours or longer from the initial pip until the baby is out. If you interfere with the egg, you will most likely cause the baby to bleed to death or if keeps alive, it will be weak for there entire life. There are many tiny blood vessels lining the egg. Breaking these will kill the bird. If you allow the bird enough time, the blood vessels will dry and the bird can hatch. The baby depends on nutrients available from the yolk; these are absorbed into the baby's belly. It is also very important not to move the egg during the few days before the bird hatches. The baby will orient himself inside the egg so that his head is at the larger end of the egg near the air sac. The baby pips his way through the shell using the edge of his beak. Once a hole is made, the baby needs to rest for several hours and acclimate his lungs to the outside air. The baby should not be disturbed during these critical phases. The baby will turn inside the egg and continue to struggle until he's out of the shell. He will be wet and exhausted and will usually lie still. After some time he will begin to perk up. When the chick have hatched and have dried, they are fed within the first hour by their parents. Try not to handle hatchling as they are very fragile and need protection and warmth from their parents. Parents should be provided food and drinking water to produce pigeon milk for the hatchlings. Unlike mammals, both sexes produce the crop milk in pigeons.
Hatching
Under normal circumstances, the first egg will hatch after 18 days and the second egg after 19 days, if parents started to incubate when the first egg was laid. Otherwise, they will both hatch on the same day. The hatching process takes from 15 to 30 hours and after hatched the hatched pigeon is called a hatchling. During hatching, you should NOT help a baby out of an egg. The baby develops the muscles in his neck, legs, and body as he pushes out of the egg. This may take 24-36 hours or longer from the initial pip until the baby is out. If you interfere with the egg, you will most likely cause the baby to bleed to death or if keeps alive, it will be weak for there entire life. There are many tiny blood vessels lining the egg. Breaking these will kill the bird. If you allow the bird enough time, the blood vessels will dry and the bird can hatch. The baby depends on nutrients available from the yolk; these are absorbed into the baby's belly. It is also very important not to move the egg during the few days before the bird hatches. The baby will orient himself inside the egg so that his head is at the larger end of the egg near the air sac. The baby pips his way through the shell using the edge of his beak. Once a hole is made, the baby needs to rest for several hours and acclimate his lungs to the outside air. The baby should not be disturbed during these critical phases. The baby will turn inside the egg and continue to struggle until he's out of the shell. He will be wet and exhausted and will usually lie still. After some time he will begin to perk up. When the chick have hatched and have dried, they are fed within the first hour by their parents. Try not to handle hatchling as they are very fragile and need protection and warmth from their parents. Parents should be provided food and drinking water to produce pigeon milk for the hatchlings. Unlike mammals, both sexes produce the crop milk in pigeons.
Under normal circumstances, the first egg will hatch after 18 days and the second egg after 19 days, if parents started to incubate when the first egg was laid. Otherwise, they will both hatch on the same day. The hatching process takes from 15 to 30 hours and after hatched the hatched pigeon is called a hatchling. During hatching, you should NOT help a baby out of an egg. The baby develops the muscles in his neck, legs, and body as he pushes out of the egg. This may take 24-36 hours or longer from the initial pip until the baby is out. If you interfere with the egg, you will most likely cause the baby to bleed to death or if keeps alive, it will be weak for there entire life. There are many tiny blood vessels lining the egg. Breaking these will kill the bird. If you allow the bird enough time, the blood vessels will dry and the bird can hatch. The baby depends on nutrients available from the yolk; these are absorbed into the baby's belly. It is also very important not to move the egg during the few days before the bird hatches. The baby will orient himself inside the egg so that his head is at the larger end of the egg near the air sac. The baby pips his way through the shell using the edge of his beak. Once a hole is made, the baby needs to rest for several hours and acclimate his lungs to the outside air. The baby should not be disturbed during these critical phases. The baby will turn inside the egg and continue to struggle until he's out of the shell. He will be wet and exhausted and will usually lie still. After some time he will begin to perk up. When the chick have hatched and have dried, they are fed within the first hour by their parents. Try not to handle hatchling as they are very fragile and need protection and warmth from their parents. Parents should be provided food and drinking water to produce pigeon milk for the hatchlings. Unlike mammals, both sexes produce the crop milk in pigeons.
First 30 days
A young pigeon until the age of 30 days is called a Squab. Squabs are fed by both parents who produce a special
substance called the pigeon milk during their first week of life. Pigeon milk is made in a special part of the bird's digestive system called the crop. When hatchlings are about one week old, the parents start regurgitating seeds with crop milk and by about fifteen days, the young are being fed on a straight grain diet. Pigeon babies require parental care for several days after hatching. Most pigeon breeders band their birds with seamless band (ring) and the time to do so is between five and twelve days, depending on breed and speed of growth. After about two weeks the chicks are left alone in the nest for longer periods as the parents, especially the hen will start ignoring the chicks as the pair is preparing for next round of eggs. After 14 to 18 days the cock pretty much cares for the babies alone. The youngsters are weaned by about 30 days, but at about 21 days most parent birds will have already gone to nest again. They should have another nest bowl and nest area (it can be the other end of their nest box) available to them. Most hens will stop feeding the young once they lay again and the cock bird will bear the brunt of feeding the babies until their final weaning. A young bird who is learning to eat and drink on its own is called a squeaker. When a young bird is ready to fly is called a fledgling and when the young bird is flying but is less than 6 months old is called a juvenile. Pigeons normally don't reach maturity level to breed until they are 6 months old.
A young pigeon until the age of 30 days is called a Squab. Squabs are fed by both parents who produce a special
substance called the pigeon milk during their first week of life. Pigeon milk is made in a special part of the bird's digestive system called the crop. When hatchlings are about one week old, the parents start regurgitating seeds with crop milk and by about fifteen days, the young are being fed on a straight grain diet. Pigeon babies require parental care for several days after hatching. Most pigeon breeders band their birds with seamless band (ring) and the time to do so is between five and twelve days, depending on breed and speed of growth. After about two weeks the chicks are left alone in the nest for longer periods as the parents, especially the hen will start ignoring the chicks as the pair is preparing for next round of eggs. After 14 to 18 days the cock pretty much cares for the babies alone. The youngsters are weaned by about 30 days, but at about 21 days most parent birds will have already gone to nest again. They should have another nest bowl and nest area (it can be the other end of their nest box) available to them. Most hens will stop feeding the young once they lay again and the cock bird will bear the brunt of feeding the babies until their final weaning. A young bird who is learning to eat and drink on its own is called a squeaker. When a young bird is ready to fly is called a fledgling and when the young bird is flying but is less than 6 months old is called a juvenile. Pigeons normally don't reach maturity level to breed until they are 6 months old.
Correcting Splay Leg
Some baby pigeons develop splay leg, a condition in which one or both legs stick out to the sides and the bird is unable to stand. This problem might be caused by improper bedding in the nest (the surface is too slippery), or by a disturbance (the bird is shaken or thrown), or by poor nutrition (lack of calcium in the diet) or the ring is placed to early. Sometimes, only one egg hatches in the nest. When that happens, I leave the un-hatched egg in the nest for 10 more days for the hatched baby to lean on to prevent splay leg.
Splay leg can be corrected but it is very important to start the rehabilitation as soon as you are aware of the condition. To correct splay leg, you will need to secure the legs in their natural position. The most effective way is to use a small sponge. Make two slits in the sponge using the end of a scissors point. Turn the scissors to make a hole somewhat round. The two slits should be just wide enough that the legs will go straight down from the body. Don't put them too close together as they will tear into each other. You have to find a balance here. You don't want to harm the bird's legs by over forcing it, but you will have to pull on them a bit to get them properly situated.
You can also use vet tape (self-adhesive gauze). Place the legs under the bird in their natural position (about one inch apart), and run the tape around the legs. You might need to lay the baby on its back to do this. You can wrap tape around the section between the legs to keep the legs apart. Alternatively, you can use any kind of soft material (gauze, sponge, cotton) between the legs.
Be very careful that you do not cut off circulation in the legs. You will want to check the bird regularly and change the tape when it gets soiled.
The bird will be very clumsy at first, but it will soon learn to stand with its legs in their correct position. The time needed for healing could be days if young but can take one to three weeks if older.
Some baby pigeons develop splay leg, a condition in which one or both legs stick out to the sides and the bird is unable to stand. This problem might be caused by improper bedding in the nest (the surface is too slippery), or by a disturbance (the bird is shaken or thrown), or by poor nutrition (lack of calcium in the diet) or the ring is placed to early. Sometimes, only one egg hatches in the nest. When that happens, I leave the un-hatched egg in the nest for 10 more days for the hatched baby to lean on to prevent splay leg.
Splay leg can be corrected but it is very important to start the rehabilitation as soon as you are aware of the condition. To correct splay leg, you will need to secure the legs in their natural position. The most effective way is to use a small sponge. Make two slits in the sponge using the end of a scissors point. Turn the scissors to make a hole somewhat round. The two slits should be just wide enough that the legs will go straight down from the body. Don't put them too close together as they will tear into each other. You have to find a balance here. You don't want to harm the bird's legs by over forcing it, but you will have to pull on them a bit to get them properly situated.
You can also use vet tape (self-adhesive gauze). Place the legs under the bird in their natural position (about one inch apart), and run the tape around the legs. You might need to lay the baby on its back to do this. You can wrap tape around the section between the legs to keep the legs apart. Alternatively, you can use any kind of soft material (gauze, sponge, cotton) between the legs.
Be very careful that you do not cut off circulation in the legs. You will want to check the bird regularly and change the tape when it gets soiled.
The bird will be very clumsy at first, but it will soon learn to stand with its legs in their correct position. The time needed for healing could be days if young but can take one to three weeks if older.